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Mysterious duo :)

4K views 41 replies 7 participants last post by  Anya 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all from 3 days owner of the mysterious duo! We are in the UK.

Hope to broke the mystery with your experience.

So the story. I have been keeping dif types of small birds for decades. Currently have an amazing cockatiel and lovely canaries. On 14th Oct I took 2 parrotlets from a local animal charity. The only information they were willing to share that the birds are 2 years old of unknown gender, the previous owner sadly passed away and relatives brought the birds to the shelter. The birds were with the charity just 2 weeks and were only fed an unbranded parakeet's seeds mix. A small animal vet looked at them and found no issue. They have got red 2018 rings. The birds were advertised as shy. That was the true for....the first couple of hours :)

https://www.talkparrotlets.com/album.php?albumid=1933&pictureid=13113


I ve bought them a sturdy cage Irene 4 by Imac and lots of toys. They love the hummock so far and i love them forever!
https://www.talkparrotlets.com/album.php?albumid=1933&pictureid=13111


The birdies are deeply bonded and spend most of the time by preening each others feathers. Could you broke the gender code? :) The green one is visibly bigger than the blue, but not massively as on the pic. Personality wise they are awesomely different. The blue parrotlet is a cautious master-minder, the green one is a brave follower :) Have not yet picked the names, want to know the gender first.

Practicality. They are on 30 days quarantine in a separate room. Happy with millets and the cockatiel mix for now. Eat and drink well, the green bird's poo is a bit watery. Both are molting as well, I gave them J&J molting tonic yesterday and will keep giving every other day for 2 weeks. They are fine with my presence, obviously, i do not touch them but observe. Seems rather happy parrotlets but less active than expected, perhaps due to the prolong stress.

Apart from the gender question, I shall appreciate some advice regarding veds/fruits. They had not have any for at least 2 weeks. I was thinking to start adding gradually the next week rather than right now. They should have enough vitamins and minerals from the tonic. Any thought?

I love them as they are now and not in hurry to tame. Although that would be nice.
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to the site. Thank you for taking these little ones in and giving them a good home. We will help as we can. This is a caring community so expect a bit of varied advice as you need it.
For sexing look for blue under wings to indicate a male. There are other possible attributes depending on blood line but the blue underwing is definitive across most bloodlines.
 
#3 ·
Thank you for rescuing them and quarantining them for 30 days away from your other birds. When it comes to determining sex for parrotlets - both males and females can have blue eye shadow and blue rumps. Only males have blue on the flight feathers.

It is best to provide vitamins and minerals through food sources, but it may be necessary to add calcium for breeding females or in other specific circumstances. I would definitely start trying to offer them cut up or chopped vegetables and a small amount of fruit. Many people sprinkle chia seeds on top to entice their bird to eat it. You may need to offer the new foods over and over and over for them to eat it regularly, which can even take months.
 
#8 ·
Thank you all for welcoming me, your most kind words and the great recommendations.

.. the green one is a male for sure. My guess is they both are ..
They are indeed! This morning they showed the bright indigo under-winds feathers. 2 gorgeous boys!

Based on the metal rings data, the same age, the same breeder but rather different birds and the green one in impressively taller.

They are quite active today and conducting the cage accessory's inventory :)

I took on board all recommendations and happy to implement. There are some contradictions in the parrotlets related articles so i would like your opinion on the below.

1. do they need the sepia bone in the cage?

2. do you give them sand?

3. do you add honey as a treat?

4. their room temperature fluctuates between 20-25C due to the boiler set-up. is this ok with the birdies?

5. could someone kindly add a link to the ACV treatment? i may consider to treat my flock at once.

Thanks again, so glad i found the forum.
 
#7 ·
Welcome to the forum! God Bless you for making a better life for the parrotlets. If they are the same age, then one may be eating more food than the other. The male may not let the other one feed as much, so watch them when they eat and make sure both get an equal chance to eat. Hang a millet spray in the cage all the time .
If you have a male and female, be careful or they may mate, then you will have eggs and possibly chicks to tend to!



They should weight around 28 grams or so, depending on age. A good avian vet can usually tell the age pretty closely, once healthy.


Cover them 11-12 hours a night. This is very important! Keep them warm and out of a draft.


Cockatiel mix is good, since your new birds are small hook bills. Nutraberries are good for them. Hemp seeds are good for them. Hard boiled eggs, chopped up or chopped in half are good for them every once in a while. Parakeet ( budgie) seeds do not have the nutrients to keep a p'lett alive for long. You can mix the seeds in with the cockatiel mix, if you want. You can mix hemp seeds in the mix. too!


Fresh veggies are good for them. Stick a broccoli floret each day in between the cage bars near a perch and leave it all day. Eventually they will eat it.


Give then a variety of different sized perches, not dowels, so you can maintain good foot health. You say they are banded on the legs? Make sure the bands are not too tight. I took the bands off all the birds I have ever owned. It is up to you and the vet.


Sounds like you are giving them a good start! We need more people like you in our world. We need more p'letts, too!


David and Vicki;):rolleyes:
 
#9 · (Edited)
I think the sepia/cuttle bone would be fine unless you are feeding a pellet heavy diet then I have seen the manufacturers say not to use them or any other added vitamin or minerals. I guess they can get too much calcium and that can cause issues. I had one in Pip's cage when I read about that but he never used it anyway so just left it.

I have never read anything about sand but they don't need grit if that is what it is meant to be for. I would think it would be bad for them.

Again I have no knowledge about honey but a quick google search and I see this..
"Some parrots enjoy honey, it's a sweet and delicious food for them but you shouldn't give parrots honey, especially raw honey. Honey can contain spores which can grow toxin-producing bacteria cells. The toxins can cause paralysis of your parrot."
I keep my house at about 72 Fahrenheit it does get down to 70 sometimes at night and Pip does fine with that.

The ACV ratio I use is 1 tablespoon to 1 quart/32 ounce of water. I read through a post over on another parrot forum back when I was researching it and took note of all the ones that had vet recommended ratios and went the average. I give this to Pip once every three months for a week to ten days to help clean out his digestive system. I also put this mix into his birdbath because he drinks from it and figure a good soaking on his feet would be good for him too. (gets changed daily)

See what everyone else has to say about it but these are my recommendations.
 
#10 ·
Hello! Welcome to the forum! How nice you are from the UK – I so happened to originally come from that part of the world myself. It is wonderful that you rescued these two little guys! They are so cute! It seems like they are settling down in their new home. That is good! Have you given them names yet? Glad you are on the forum - you are going to learn a lot here.

As for your questions:

Yes, they do need a sepia bone (Cuttlebone) in their cage for calcium.

Sand? No, parrotlets do not need sand/grit. It will clog up their digestive system.

Raw honey? No. It can be dangerous to birds.

Temperature – 65 to 85 F (18 to 29C) is good. It is important not to have any drastic temperature changes in one day. Because these birds come from warm climates, I try to keep the temperature at least 73F (22F) but my bird loves it best at 80F (26C)! As silly as it sounds, I imagine if you have skinny birds with less meat on their bones, they probably need the temperature higher and if your bird is heavier, they probably can deal with cooler temps.

Regarding AVC treatment – People do give this to their birds, but I personally do not. I have a “If it is not broken do not fix it” attitude about it. If my vet ever suggests giving it, then I will.
 
#11 ·
I have never used apple cider vinegar in over 20 years of having parrotlets. It kills all bacteria in their system, both good and bad. When people use it, it is meant for short term use ONLY. Probiotics are a concentrated source of the good bacteria.

I agree with Anya on the cuttlebone, sand, and honey.
 
#12 ·
thank you for your prompt responses. I will follow your navigation.

Today is the birdies 4th day with me. So far so good with some exceptions.

While they are setting down better than i expected, i am a bit worrying about their diet. They are basically "cherry picking". They only eat millet spray and 4 types of seeds from the mix, the right side of the pic.
https://www.talkparrotlets.com/album.php?albumid=1933&pictureid=13115

they indicate zero interest toward a cup of cut vegges, green leaves and fruits. it may take a long while to make them eat it.

also the green birdie's feet look rather pale. avitaminosis? i may worry for nothing but with these tiny creatures prefer to be on the safe side.

as they are molting and suffering from stress, i think the safe option is to order some organic pellets just for now. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001LK3E1U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AXJ8S7ZA0I08A&psc=1

I will introduce the veggies and fruits, of course, just back up the nutritious with the pellets.
 
#13 ·
Had that problem with my rescues, Jules and Bo. They were bad seed junkies. Nutriberries was my way out. Still had seed they were after but forced them into more variety and pellets. I have had best luck with orchard and El Paso varieties.

https://lafeber.com/
 
#15 · (Edited)
If you are going to get pellets there is a webpage with most of the pellets listed with ingredients so you can compare them. It was made by a member of another forum but has a lot of information on pellets.
https://www.lilmonstersbirdtoys.com/pellets-for-parrots

If your birds only like certain kinds of seeds they might not eat pellets either at first. There is a conversion that is used to get a bird to eat pellets by mixing a bowl with half pellets and half seeds then put in less seeds and more pellets each time until they are eating the pellets. I did this with Pip until he was only getting pellets. It only took him a few days and I noticed him eating the pellets so it went quick with us but make sure they are eating and not losing weight. I fed him only pellets for a week with no seeds to get him used to eating them after the conversion. I then added back in the amount of seed mix I wanted him to have. (1.5 tsp pellets and 1/2 tsp seed mix) This ensures that he does not fill up on seeds and still eats his pellets. He does eat the seeds first for his breakfast but he then has his pellets the rest of the day. If I think there is an excess amount of pellets not being eaten I will just cut back on the seeds a bit the next day but we have it down now where there is very little waste/uneaten food.

Edit: The webpage linked is on US brand pellets
 
#16 ·
If you are going to get pellets there is a webpage with most of the pellets listed with ingredients so you can compare them. It was made by a member of another forum but has a lot of information on pellets.
https://www.lilmonstersbirdtoys.com/pellets-for-parrots

If your birds only like certain kinds of seeds they might not eat pellets either at first. There is a conversion that is used to get a bird to eat pellets by mixing a bowl with half pellets and half seeds then put in less seeds and more pellets each time until they are eating the pellets. I did this with Pip until he was only getting pellets. It only took him a few days and I noticed him eating the pellets so it went quick with us but make sure they are eating and not losing weight. I fed him only pellets for a week with no seeds to get him used to eating them after the conversion. I then added back in the amount of seed mix I wanted him to have. (1.5 tsp pellets and 1/2 tsp seed mix) This ensures that he does not fill up on seeds and still eats his pellets. He does eat the seeds first for his breakfast but he then has his pellets the rest of the day. If I think there is an excess amount of pellets not being eaten I will just cut back on the seeds a bit the next day but we have it down. there is very little waste too this way.

Edit: The webpage linked is on US brand pellets
Thank you very much for sharing Bryan.

Amazon will deliver any brand:)

I do not know yet what they like but watching then picking sunflower seeds all day is quite worrying. I ve ordered Lafeber NutriBerries as advised here and will walk through the list "pellets for parrots" tomorrow morning. I prefer mix seeds for my birds, but may consider add some pellets.
 
#21 ·
yes, thanks. the fourth one is a hemp seed.

they eat a lot of millers as well so the diet is not too bad. i see the full picture now and worry less. nutriberries pack is on the way.

i ve noticed today there is no urates in the green birdie's poop but he drinks more than the blue one.

they are quite active today, play with toys and explore the cage floor. seems their life is getting back to normal :)
 
#25 ·
I agree on them eating variety but I do see the value in the pellets and why I choose to make them part of Pips diet.

I was reading on the Association of Avian Veterinarians website and they suggest pellets too but have the caveat that the smaller birds need some seeds.
Proper diet is critical for overall health in every species, birds
included. The easiest way to feed a balanced diet is to use
commercial formulated diets especially made for your type of
pet bird. Pelleted diets are specifically formulated to meet the
nutritional needs of your bird. They contain the right balance of
vitamins, minerals, protein, carbohydrates, and fats that your bird
requires for optimal health. There are several different pellets
available at your local pet store or veterinary clinic. Ask your
veterinarian which type of pelleted diet is best for your bird. One
caveat to the pelleted diet recommendation is that small parrot
species, especially budgerigars, but also parrotlets, lovebirds and
cockatiels, can have kidney problems on a pelleted-only diet;
for these species we recommend free choice pellets plus meal
feeding some seeds each day
Quote from the "Basic Care for Companion Birds" on this page..
https://www.aav.org/page/birdowners
 
#28 ·
I was reading on the Association of Avian Veterinarians website and they suggest pellets too but have the caveat that the smaller birds need some seeds.

Quote from the "Basic Care for Companion Birds" on this page..
https://www.aav.org/page/birdowners
well, i consider pellets as a backup for seeds. if my new birds only eat 2-3 types of seeds and ignore fruits and leaves, i will have to introduce them pellets, no doubt.

otherwise, i am Old School and enjoy watching them making mess with their seeds, fruits, veggies and leaves :)
 
#27 ·
None of the reputable parrotlet breeders that I know - advocate for using a primarily pellet diet. They are all aware of the liver and kidney issues associated from feeding them (other than Tops brand pellets). In addition, pellets actually DO contain ground up seeds, so you are feeding them anyways.
 
#30 · (Edited)
26 day of the "journey", 4 days before my parrotles' quarantine is over.

first and foremost, massive thanks to everyone for sharing the useful information.

now some update. my new pets, 2yo rescued boys, are fine, happy with the cockatiel seed mix, vegges and millets. they play with some toys, sleep on the vertical robe whirl and enjoy each other company.

they are still very wary of my hand in the cage, especially Danny, the blue one. he is smarter, much smaller and an nervous wreck. haven't got a clue how to win his trust at the moment.

they are very confident in the cage and happy to walk on the floor to catch sunflower seeds. surprisingly they just ignore nutriberres balls, well kick them occasionally.

they are so different personality wise, as if the different species. the green one, Dipsy, he is bigger in every way. in his size, his appetite, his water consumption, his diarrhea, his drive to adventure, his love to sleep. i have got Asterix and Obelix in the cage :)

my the only concern is they haven't had a proper bath so far. they use the attached bath as a spare water fountain infrequently .

well, not the only one. they seems happy and healthy but not active as this kind supposed to be. they play with the toys a bit but most of the time sit calmly on the top perch.

sometimes i worry when they wag tails a bit while dossing but perhaps i am over alarmed due to their quarantine.

i was wondering if anyone here has managed to tame a bonded pair? any tips?
 
#31 ·
Many parrotlets rarely bathe and providing them a bath to allow them to choose when to bathe is a good approach. They have no sweat glands, so they do not need frequent showers/baths like humans.

It definitely is much more difficult to tame a bonded pair. You likely would have better success if you take them into separate rooms for one on one training. You also may want to get a spare cage to keep ready in case they start fighting. It is recommended to house parrotlets separately due to their aggressive nature. Even bonded pairs have been known to kill or injure a mate.
 
#32 ·
Thank you, Jackie, i worried a great deal about them not having a bath.

At the moment they act as unseparated duo finding a comfort in each other company. The smaller one always manages to hide behind the bigger one and it is difficult to believe they could ever fight:) But nature is nature and i keep eyes on their behavior. I do have a spare cage just in case.
 
#33 ·
Since they are ignoring the nutriberries whole, you might want to try breaking them up first before offering it to them. That may peak their interest in trying them. Most birds LOVE them.

My bird loves baths every 10 days or so, but I sometimes still have to coax her to take one. If I see that she appears to need one - her feet look dry and she is chewing more than normal, I encourage her by sprinkling a little water on her head and wings and that usually gets her in the mood.

I agree, separating them will make it easier for you to bond with them and train them.
 
#34 ·
Thank you, Anya, will definitely try.

They master to ignore everything in the beginning. Used broccoli as a fancy perch for a while before started eating it :)

I wanted to spray some water on them in a panic. Will do it if see they need it. Look very tidy at the moment.

Not yet brave to separate them for some training. Will introduce them to the rest of my flock first then make my mind.
 
#35 ·
did not find the right thread so asking here. tho feel as if i am grassing my birdies :sneaky:

7 months had just flown. it was a journey! my birdies are lovely and it is a pleasure to watch them.

They are 2 adorable healthy boys. The problem or just peculiar behavior is, well, they are mating daily. And the smaller one (blue)has a habit to regurgitate food for the bigger birdie. The blue one has unlimited access to 3 different feeders and should be fine but i worry if his habit is harmful for his health. any thought?
46648
 
#36 ·
Hi! Nice to hear from you again!

Yup, birds can form same-sex couples when no bird of a different sex is available to mate with. Regurgitation is a hormonal sign – it is a sign of courtship. Your birds are extremely cute, and you can see how bonded they are, but unfortunately, this can bring about “mother nature” to take over, which will lead to hormonal problems. If both of your birds share the same cage, it would be a good idea to separate them, otherwise, chances are, these behavioral patterns may continue again in the future. You can keep their cages side by side for company and let them out to socialize with each other (under your supervision). To help reduce hormone levels you can adjust their diet. At this time, do not provide them with food that is high in fat, carbs or calories. Stick with good quality seeds, veggies, fruit only occasionally (too much natural sugars), and cut back on pellets that contain high protein. Offer nuts only occasionally, too. This is because certain foods provide our birds with high energy which makes them interpret it as a good time to mate. If I were you, I would put them in separate cages, and not let them out of their cages together until they are no longer showing hormonal behaviors. I would also cover their cages for an extra hour or two every night because that also lowers hormonal levels. Try this for a week or two. Just watch them to see how they are behaving. I know that people like to keep bonded pairs together but keeping them separated is the best way to control hormones.
 
#37 ·
Thank you so much Anya for your informative response.

I just cannot imagine to separate them, they are glued together 24/7 inside the cage and out. If one hides himself behind a curtain for a few seconds the other one is hysterical. I will think about it and see if i am brave enough to separate them.

The diet adjustment is much easier option. I will definitely start here. May also increase there time out of the cage from current 2 hours to 3.

I ve been thinking to write a long glorious story here about us all settling down over the last 7 months and then bang "hormones game".
 
#38 ·
I know, I understand where you are coming from, but we are talking about hormones here which can make birds miserable, frustrated, aggressive and crazy. I know it is hard, but it would be healthier for them to be less dependent on each other. If you have the cages next to each other, they should not be scared or frightened. And after the hormones calm down, let them out to socialize as much as you can. Remember the diet is just for when they are hormonal.

I would love to hear your boys story and how they have been doing until the inevitable happened. It is just nature - they are possibly going through puberty which is a tough time for them. The good news is that it will pass.;)
 
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